To avoid industrial meat production - and the climate-wrecking that comes with it - Ends Meat buys from small farmers whose animals are well treated. “It makes me feel like I’m living in a tiny little village.”Įnds Meat, 254 36th St., Unit 38, Sunset Park 71 “I love that they answer the phone,” says Top Chef judge Gail Simmons, who buys everything from first-cut briskets to bags of chicken bones and schmaltz. The staff also still picks up the landline. Customers come in for Staubitz’s rotisserie chickens and Frank’s (gluten-free) chicken meatballs as well as the rosy cuts of meat, including Newport steaks for three. Today, McFadden’s son, John Jr., lobs friendly banter over the counter as he expertly carves a tenderloin or debones a shank. An old cashier’s booth still occupies the back corner. Large photographs on the wall show butchers smiling from the 1920s to the 1980s.
Vintage light fixtures hang from the ceiling. Not much has changed - though John McFadden, who had been working the counter since 1967, died last year. The squeak of the screen door of Staubitz Market has been heard on Court Street since 1917, when John Staubitz first opened the shop. Staubitz Market, 222 Court St., Cobble Hill 71 “The aroma of meat sparks that nostalgia of the New York I grew up in.” “When I walk in, it feels like I’ve been transported back to my childhood on the Lower East Side,” he says. “Pino’s is a family business, and everyone in there is family or becomes family,” says Miguel Trinidad, a chef who visits often for the ground-lamb burgers (“The gamy flavor and the spices are perfectly balanced,” he says) and a familiar feeling.
Most everyone who walks in is greeted by name. The staff caters to locals and restaurants, providing lamb racks for Carbone, veal for Song’E Napule, and dry-aged steaks for Park Side Restaurant. Cinquemani works the counter with his brother, Sal, and his cousin, also Sal, and his friend Gustavo, whom he’s known since he was 5.
Leo Cinquemani, the current owner of century-old Pino’s Prime Meat, mans the shop behind a case of chops, homemade sausages, and Murray’s chickens just as his father did (his dad traded his Cadillac for the store in the 1980s). “We talk methods and prep, they show me some cool cuts that I’ve never heard of, then I get to watch them fabricate my order right in front of me.” “I can roll in with a rough idea of what I’m in the mood for or how many people I’m cooking for, and whoever is behind the counter will game it out with me,” she says. Not just top-notch steak, ribs, and chicken but really creative sides and super-nice, friendly service.” The staff also welcomes collaboration, which drew in author Carla Lalli Music. For Ted Allen, host of Chopped, “what really sealed the deal for us was the incredible job they did catering a birthday party. Other meant-for-a-crowd dishes include an entire rib roast and a pork loin with belly attached. “Their large-format things are great for that,” she says, citing the in-house brined and smoked ham, which feeds 15 to 20. Chef and author Natasha Pickowicz shops there for backyard gatherings.
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The once-small counter space is now a 900-square-foot emporium with a classroom for instruction on how to cook offal or butcher a pig. When the meat hook opened in 2009, it joined a just-starting-to-open bunch of “New Williamsburg” specialty shops that would lure in people from other neighborhoods ( Marlow & Sons was a few years old Saltie was brand new). The Meat Hook, 397 Graham Ave., Williamsburg 71
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